Where Y’Eat: Tribute Dishes to Our Dining Past

Where Y’Eat: Tribute Dishes to Our Dining Past

Famous "lost dishes" from New Orleans' dining past are turning up again at newer restaurants around town. <!-- end jp-progress --><!-- end jp-controls -->Listen<!-- playpause --><!-- jp-time-holder --> The appeal of the new holds powerful sway in food and dining, as the excitement over new restaurants, the interest in new flavors and the buzz of new food trends reminds us constantly. But, to paraphrase liberally from William Faulkner’s immortal quote, the dining of the past is not dead. In fact, in New Orleans at least, it's often right there on your plate.Sure, the famous old-line restaurants are celebrated for hardly ever changing a thing, besides maybe their prices. And plenty of neighborhood joints around town offer a similar time warp dining experience. But lately, the New Orleans obsession with the past, even in its food, has been turning up more and more and at restaurants that otherwise have a modern bent.It’s taking the form of retro dishes and tribute recipes that are either heavily influenced by, or taken straight from, the menus of extinct but well-remembered New Orleans restaurants. One of the most prominent in that category has to be Uglesich’s, which closed in 2005, before Hurricane Katrina, but is still much talked about for the way its superlative local seafood lured diners to an otherwise unlikely Central City address. One of its signature dishes was called trout muddy waters, with a sauce of broth, anchovies and jalapenos that was more about flavor than heat. If that sounds tasty to you, well, today you can find a tribute version on the menus of at least three New Orleans restaurants — Mondo in Lakeview, and at the Uptown fine-dining spots Martinique Bistro and Clancy’s.Restaurant Mandich in the Bywater was another quirky destination for Creole cooking that had a history beginning in 1922, but ending in 2005 with Hurricane Katrina. And again, one of its better-known dishes, oysters Bordelaise, today lives on at the Uptown restaurant Upperline, where these spicy fried oysters with garlic and oil are known as oysters St. Claude — the name a nod to the old Mandich address. At Brigtsen’s in the Riverbend, the legacy of the former West Bank standout Leruth’s Restaurant is remembered in baked oysters LeRuth, topped with shrimp and crabmeat.Meanwhile, Restaurant R’Evolution in the French Quarter has crafted a whole roster of tribute dishes, served as specials during weekday lunch. These range from red beans and rice inspired by the Creole soul food legend Buster Holmes to a weiner schnitzel in homage to Kolb’s, the German restaurant that operated for almost a century in the CBD.  Dishes from Maylie’s, La Louisiane, Elmwood Plantation, the Caribbean Room, Toney’s Pizza and Spaghetti House, the Andrew Jackson Restaurant and again Leruth’s are found among these tribute specials too. What’s behind it all? Maybe a sociologist would tell us it’s a blowback against the increasingly modern trends taking root or the rapid pace of change across our city. Or maybe it goes deeper still. Our traditional cuisine is entwined with history and culture, but it’s also fueled by chefs and restaurateurs who both inspire and mentor the next generation of chefs and restaurateurs. The impact of chefs, of restaurants and even of their signature dishes runs deep. So here we do more than just pay lip service to our past, sometimes we even fill our bellies with it.
Why Is The Government In The Flood Insurance Business?

Why Is The Government In The Flood Insurance Business?

There's a quick, one-word explanation for why the federal government started selling flood insurance: Betsy. Hurricane Betsy, which struck the Gulf Coast in 1965, became known as billion-dollar Betsy. Homes were ruined. Water up to the roofs. People paddling around streets in boats. Massive damage. This would be the time when you'd expect people to be pulling out their flood insurance policies. But flood insurance was hard to come by. You could get fire insurance, theft insurance, car insurance, life insurance. Not flood. "There was a lack of data," says Eric Smith, president and CEO of Swiss Re in the Americas. "One of the bedrock principles of insurance is it has to be something that's somewhat measurable. You have be able to calculate its frequency, its severity. How often this going to occur and how much damage is it going to do?" A few years after Betsy, in 1968, the government decided it would take on the job of selling flood insurance. Some people hated this idea. If private insurance companies wouldn't sell policies to people who wanted to live in flood zones, they argued, why should the government? This argument did not win the day. The government created flood maps, gathered data, and set up the National Flood Insurance Program. "I think it generally worked out OK overall, until Katrina," says Mark Browne, a professor of risk management and insurance at the University of Wisconsin, Madison. "Katrina was a major loss for the National Flood Insurance Program. It blew through its money and went into deficit. "This is why flood insurance is a tricky business. You can have a quiet three decades, then a huge hurricane plows into a major city. Suddenly you're back in the red." Over the past few years, the National Flood Insurance Program has had to borrow $17 billion from the government. So were the critics right? Is the government running a bad business? Maybe not. After a big national disaster, Browne argues, the government is on the hook anyway. It might as well collect some money by selling insurance. The head of the National Flood Insurance Program says the program plans to repay the money it borrowed from the government — but it may take 20 or 30 years to do so.Copyright 2013 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.Transcript STEVE INSKEEP, HOST: Millions of Americans who live close to water have occasion to think about flood insurance. In the United States, if you want to buy flood insurance, the odds are you're going to be buying it from the United States government. The National Flood Insurance Program was intended to pay for itself, set the premiums at a rate that they finance the payments. But the program is currently a money loser, which only got worse after Hurricane Sandy. David Kestenbaum of NPR's Planet Money team has this story about how the government got into the flood insurance business. DAVID KESTENBAUM, BYLINE: There's a quick, one-word explanation for why the government started selling flood insurance. That word: Betsy. WINDELL CURALL: Hurricane Betsy hit in 1965, September 9th. MICHELE KELEMEN, BYLINE: Windell Curall runs a local levee district in Louisiana but he remembers that exact date for a different reason. CURALL: It hit on my 14th birthday. KESTENBAUM: Wow. CURALL: The uninvited guest. KESTENBAUM: Windell's family lived south of New Orleans, a place he describes as half land, half water. His family had lived there for generations. And on that day, in 1965, something like 30 relatives came over to take refuge. CURALL: Uncles, aunts and first cousins. And they came up to, I say, the high country. They left land that was about three feet above sea level to come to our house, which about five feet about sea level. KESTENBAUM: He remembers the storm hitting with terrifying winds. Then the eye of the storm. Then the winds, from the opposite direction. CURALL: I remember attic door getting blown off from the wind pressure, and they actually out and nailed it shut. KESTENBAUM: The storm became known as Billion Dollar Betsy. Homes were ruined. Water up to the roofs. People paddling around streets in boats. All that stuff. Massive damage. And this would be the time when you'd expect people to be pulling out their flood insurance policies. But - they couldn't. Flood insurance was really hard to come by. You could get fire insurance, theft insurance, health insurance, car insurance, life insurance. But not flood insurance. Eric Smith works in the insurance industry. He is president and CEO of Swiss Re in the Americas. ERIC SMITH: There was a lack of data. One of the principles, the bedrock principles of insurance is its got to be something that's somewhat measurable. You have to be able to calculate its frequency and its severity and, you know, how often is this going to occur and how much damage will it do KESTENBAUM: A few years after hurricane Betsy, in 1968, the government decided it would take it on the job of selling flood insurance. Some people hated this idea. If private insurance companies wouldn't sell policies to people who wanted to live in flood zones, why should the government. That argument did not win the day. The government created flood maps, gathered data, and set up the National Flood Insurance Program. MARK BROWNE: I think it generally worked out OK, overall, until Katrina. KESTENBAUM: Mark Browne is a professor of Risk Management and Insurance at University of Wisconsin Madison. BROWNE: Katrina came. And Katrina was a major loss for the National Flood Insurance Program. Now, blew through its money and went into deficit. KESTENBAUM: This, frankly, is the other reason why flood insurance is a tricky business. You could have a quiet three decades - 30 years - and then, bam, a huge hurricane plows into a major city. Suddenly you got to pay out all this money. And on the heels of Katrina there was - you may remember - Rita and Wilma. The National Flood Insurance Program had to borrow money from the government. A lot of money, $17 billion dollars. BROWNE: That's a lot of money to borrow. (LAUGHTER) BROWNE: That's exactly right. KESTENBAUM: The debt got worse after Sandy. So were the critics right? Is the government running a bad business. Mark Browne says maybe that's the wrong way to look at it. After a big national disaster, the government is on the hook anyway. It might as well collect some money by selling insurance. And all that money the program had to borrow, David Miller, who oversees the National Flood Insurance Program, says the plan is to pay it back. DAVID MILLER: If I look at the rates now, and where I am and what's expected and when I can project. We can repay the debt. It would be over a long time. KESTENBAUM: He says it could take 20 or 30 years. David Kestenbaum NPR News (SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC) INSKEEP: Think of this Public Radio station as your insurance that you get MORNING EDITION every day. But you can continue to follow us throughout the day on social media. We're on Facebook. We're also on Twitter. Among other handles we are @morningedition and @nprinskeep. (SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC) INSKEEP: It's MORNING EDITION from NPR News. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.